The Birkin and Kelly: The Most Imitated Handbags of All Time

This week, at the age of 76, the world said goodbye to Jane Birkin—the British-French singer and actress who shot to fame in 1969 with her then-partner Serge Gainsbourg through their sultry duet Je t’aime… moi non plus, instantly recognisable for her ethereal voice with a distinct British accent.

While music lovers remember her for her art, the world of fashion knows her as the namesake of the Birkin bag—an icon of French luxury house Hermès, alongside the equally legendary Kelly bag. Jane herself would often joke about the bag’s fame:

“At concerts, I say the bag will sing for you, because people know it better than my musical career.”

The Birkin’s Roots in the Kelly

The Kelly bag was named after American film star Grace Kelly, who became Princess of Monaco upon marrying Prince Rainier III. In 1956, Grace Kelly graced the cover of Life magazine holding her Hermès bag to discreetly shield her pregnant belly. That single photograph turned the bag into an instant global phenomenon.

The Birth of the Birkin

The story of how Jane Birkin reimagined the Kelly is well-known among fashion lovers:

“I remember it perfectly! I was flying first class to London and found myself seated next to an extraordinary man—Jean-Louis Dumas, the visionary behind Hermès. I was trying to fit my bag into the overhead compartment, but everything spilled out onto the floor. I told him: ‘The day Hermès makes a practical bag with pockets, I’ll buy it.’ I wanted something larger than the Kelly but smaller than Serge’s suitcase. He listened, we discussed, and that’s how the Birkin was born. I was truly honoured it was named after me.”

In 2011, Hermès paid Jane an annual royalty of £30,000, which she donated entirely to charities of her choice.

Price and Prestige

Today, the most affordable Birkin starts at around €10,000, while rare, exotic versions can command up to €250,000.

Sizes

Available in a variety of leathers—calfskin, ostrich, and among the most expensive, crocodile—every Birkin is lined with goatskin, with the interior colour matching the exterior.

• Birkin 25– 25 x 20 x 13 cm
• Birkin 30– 30 x 22 x 16 cm
• Birkin 35– 35 x 25 x 18 cm
• Birkin 40– 40 x 30 x 21 cm

Colours

The Birkin is produced in a wide spectrum of shades, including black, brown, tan, navy, olive, orange, pink, powder blue, red, and white.

Luxury Services

Hermès even offers a “spa treatment” for Birkins—a specialised restoration service for well-loved bags.

The Shooting Star Stamp

Some Birkins feature the rare “Shooting Star” mark—an embossed falling star next to the “Hermès, Paris, Made in France” stamp. The mark is in gold or silver to match the hardware, occasionally appearing as a blind (colourless) emboss. Every bag also bears the artisan’s stamp inside.

Birkin vs. Kelly – Key Differences

Although similar in terms of quality and prestige, there are several key differences between the Kelly and the Birkin:

• Shape– The Kelly has a more structured, trapezoid silhouette with rounded edges, a single top handle, and a single closure at the top. The Birkin has a more relaxed, rectangular shape with extra volume and two handles, featuring its signature flap and hook closure.
• Closure– The Kelly features a single top clasp that can be secured with a padlock. The Birkin uses a hook closure that also offers security, though most owners leave it open.
• Durability– The Birkin is renowned for its exceptional durability and strong structure. It is more rigid and holds its shape better than the Kelly, making it more resistant to deformation.
• Occasions– The Kelly is often described as more formal and elegant, ideal for business events and evening occasions. The Birkin is associated with a more relaxed, everyday luxury style, though its versatility allows it to be used as an elegant bag as well.
• Availability– The Birkin is famous for its extremely limited availability and long waiting lists, making it a true prestige symbol and a collector’s treasure. The Kelly is available in a wider variety of colours and materials and is generally easier to obtain.

A Timeless Symbol

Whether Kelly or Birkin, these bags embody elegance, craftsmanship, and heritage. Hermès uses only the finest leathers and premium materials, with each piece handcrafted and meticulously detailed—often requiring many hours to complete. Produced in limited quantities, they remain two of the most coveted accessories in the world.

Watch this video for a closer look at both bags.